Your new jacket should hug the shoulders, never pinch them. Does it fit on the shoulders? Test it: Lean your jacket against a wall. If the jacket shoulders touch the wall in front of your own shoulders, it is too big. If the seam rests on the sleeve head, it is too tight. Important: everything should be smooth along the shoulders.
THE BACK PART
The rule of thumb says: the back should be smooth and give you enough room to move. If the jacket has horizontal creases from the back, it is too tight, vertical creases (with the exception of the movement crease under the armpits) say: too wide.
THE WAIST AND THE BUTTON
Whether three or two buttons – it also depends on the placement of the button to be fastened. To find the spot, there is a trick: put your left and right hand on your hip bones, go up, your waist is at the narrowest point. Perfect. You can decide for yourself how fitted your new jacket should be. But: The height of the jacket waist can also conceal a very high or very low waist of the wearer.
THE ARM LENGTH
The sleeves should end just before the wrist and leave about a centimeter of cuffs. It can also be more, but never too much – then the jacket looks as if you’ve outgrown it. As far as jacket length is concerned, it depends on your fashion sense: short jackets are modern, and the rule is that at least the buttocks should be covered.
Take your time when buying a jacket. You have to try it out to see if it fits perfectly. Run, move in it, dance with it. Only when nothing feels crooked and crooked is it ideal. And even a finished jacket needs breaking in before it becomes your jacket.
A perfect jacket doesn’t exist any more than a perfect car, a perfect house or a perfect world. If you look hard enough you will always find something to change. Learn to educate your tastes and requirements, but also learn to live comfortably with the status quo. You’ll never look in the mirror as intensely as you do when you’re trying on a made-to-measure suit.